If the thought of vegan food conjures images of a giant plate of alfalfa sprouts, itâs time to revisit the concept. These days, vegan restaurants in Texas tend more toward soul food than rabbit food, and they use creative stand-ins for beef (protein-rich seitan, made from vital wheat gluten), cheese (soaked and pureed nuts), and pork (the shredded flesh of the giant Asian jackfruit) that can satisfy even die-hard carnivores. While Austin has long been considered the capital of Texasâ vegan scene, other cities now offer stiff competition in the way of veggie-forward, animal-free fare. These five eateries around the state break the mold while putting plants first.
Señor Veggie
San Antonio
After selling mouthwatering falafel at farmers markets, JosĂ© Cruz and Tiffany Sotelo opened vegan restaurant Señor Veggie in 2014. Housed in a marigold-hued building in the artsy Lavaca neighborhood, the eatery is well known for its veggie street tacos stuffed with tender jackfruit, tangy cilantro-lime coleslaw, and cashew-based crema; and Southwestern empanadas filled with sweet potatoes, black beans, roasted corn, and poblanos. Cruz uses vital wheat gluten ââa culinary marvel,â he saysâto make the seitan that he smokes to create vegan brisket and carne asada. The vibe is laid-back and funky, and heaping portions mean youâll take home leftovers.
620 S. Presa St.210-228-0073senorveggie.us
Tough Cookie Bakery
Bastrop
This community-focused vegetarian coffee shop located in a century-old former church features local artwork on its walls, live music on Fridays, a kidsâ play area, and a dog-friendly porch that invites patrons to linger. In the pretzel brat, a wheat gluten- and soy-based bratwurst is wrapped in owners Chris and Jennie McEwanâs signature pretzel bread, which they developed while selling pretzels at farmers markets in Dallas. If you have a sweet tooth, try the gooey cinnamon rolls dripping with vegan cream cheese frosting and the dense, cakelike brownies made with applesauce instead of eggs.
601 Chestnut St., Suite D1204 Chestnut St.512-629-6936
Central Perks
Marshall
Deb and Rob Sorich saw increased demand for vegan options in 2011, after then-mayor of Marshall Ed Smith and his wife, Amanda, began sponsoring healthy-living events that taught residents how to lose weight and lower blood pressure by adopting a plant-based diet. The coffee shop and cafĂ© still honors the message with a vegan menu offering dishes like the Southwest black bean burger dressed with vegan jalapeño cream cheese, cilantro, and avocado. The same burger patty is a centerpiece of the fiesta salad, drizzled with creamy housemade vegan cilantro ranch dressing. Be sure to browse the antiques and gift shop that shares Central Perksâ historic building.
211 N. Washington Ave.903-934-9902centralperks.us
The Queenâs Table Vegan Cuisine
El Paso
Located in a strip mall on the east side of the city, The Queenâs Table dishes out vegan soul food lovingly prepared by owner Queen Adalah Aza. Start with the surprising and inventive soy-based âunShrimpâ wrapped in âunBaconâ and served with remoulade. The deep-fried âunChicken,â made from wheat gluten, comes with traditional sides like collard greens; nutritional yeast, liquid aminos (a soy sauce analog), and vegan bacon infuse the dish with a rich, smoky flavor. For dessert, the cake cup alternates layers of chocolate, red velvet, or carrot cake with scoops of vegan ice cream and is topped with dairy-free whipped cream and a cherry.
12115 Montwood Drive, Suite B201915-234-2277thequeenstablevegancuisine.com
Chile de Ărbol
Brownsville
When brothers Ramses (right) and Anubis Avalos adopted a vegan diet three years ago, they realized it would be hard to dine out in Brownsville. So they opened their food truck, Chile de Ărbol, where they offer tacos, burgers, and Indian-inspired veggie-and-rice bowls, all relying heavily on scratch-made ingredients. In the vistec taco, a vegan adaptation of the regionâs popular tacos de bistec, seitan made with wheat gluten, black beans, and garbanzos substitutes for steak. The pastor taco features homemade tempeh (fermented soybeans) marinated in a tangy-sweet sauce made from chiles, agave, and vinegar. âThe ultimate accomplishment is when we see our meat-eating, barbecue-frenzied friends enjoying our tacos and coming back for more,â Anubis says.
The Broken Sprocket Bar and Food Truck Park6305 Paredes Line Road956-545-3800
1204 Chestnut St.512-629-6936
This article was first published in Texas Highways. Click here to view the article in its original format.