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Can Whole Grain Stand Up To White?

Healthy Bread Tries To Shed Old Image

Remember the good old days, when Mom would come home from the grocery store with bread and it would be that same familiar white Wonder bread wrapper in the bag every time?

Years ago, the only people who ate whole-grain breads usually did so in the back of their VW Vanagons while motoring between Grateful Dead shows. Little did they know it was one of the healthiest things they could do.

But what, exactly, is whole-grain? Quite simply, it's when a cereal grain, such as wheat, is kept entire, with the bran (the outer shell) and the germ (the "food" for the seed) together with the endosperm, which is the only part used in refined-grain products like many white breads.

The health benefits from consuming whole grains are manifold. Whole grains contain more antioxidants and protein, as well as several trace minerals, than refined ones. The biggest difference is in dietary fiber. Just as with fruits like apples, the fiber content lies primarily in the outer covering. Keeping the bran in the mix gives a roughly 400 percent increase in the amount of dietary fiber present.

As far as taste … well, there's the rub, for some people. Those who grew up thinking that bread was supposed to be a largely flavorless vehicle for whatever someone piled on it might have a bit of trouble adjusting to whole-grain bread, which is generally much denser and more flavorful than white.

In this test, we'll be comparing "premium" breads, from brands such as Arnold, Pepperidge Farm and Nature's Own. These are the shorter, wider loaves you'll usually find in their own section in the bread aisle. For true sandwich artisans, these are the breads of choice, as their greater slice size allows for much more in the way of stacking.

We've got whole-grain breads, a couple of white breads, a sourdough and even a potato bread in the mix, and you'll get the nutrition facts -- including fiber per serving -- for each one, as well as notes on taste and texture.

The tasting panel for this comparison consisted of three women and two men. Each bread was tested fresh out of the wrapper, with nothing on it. Then, two slices of each bread were toasted and lightly buttered. Each bread's score (on a 1-100 scale) reflects the tasters' evaluation of flavor, texture and overall quality.

We'll start with the non-whole-grain breads, then move along.

Arnold Country White: 120 calories, 2 grams fat, 0 cholesterol, 260 mg sodium, 22 grams carbs, 1 gram dietary fiber, 3 grams protein.

This very tender bread has a light, yeasty aroma. It toasts up nicely crispy on the outside and tender on the inside, but gets somewhat mushy when buttered. Final score: 82.

Pepperidge Farm Farmhouse Whole Grain White: 110 calories, 2 grams fat, 0 cholesterol, 180 mg sodium, 21 grams carbs, 3 grams dietary fiber, 4 grams protein.

If you're suffering guilt because you crave white bread but need your fiber, this bread might just be your solution. It has a light, slightly buttery texture, and when toasted the crust is perfectly crispy and very tasty. It's a bit less dense than regular white bread, and might not hold up too well in a heavy-duty sandwich, but it cruised to a final score of 95.

Martin's Potato Bread: 80 calories, 1 gram fat, 0 cholesterol, 120 mg sodium, 15 grams carbs, 2 grams dietary fiber, 4 grams protein.

Bear in mind when reading the nutrition facts that the slices of this bread are actually somewhere between a standard sandwich loaf and a premium loaf in size. The texture was very smooth, with a strong buttery flavor. The crust was a bit limp, even after toasting, but there was a sweet finish to the toasted slice that was very pleasing. Final score: 84.

Cobblestone Mill San Francisco Style Sourdough: 80 calories, .5 grams fat, 0 cholesterol, 180 mg sodium, 16 grams carbs, less than 1 gram dietary fiber, 3 grams protein.

Untoasted, this bread isn't particularly remarkable, with a so-so aroma and a flavor that's more white bread than sourdough. Toasting vastly improves the picture, with the slice developing a wonderful crust that takes butter very nicely. You'll need an extra-wide toaster for the slices, though. Final score: 81.

Nature's Own All Natural 100% Whole Wheat: 100 calories, 1.5 grams fat, 0 cholesterol, 240 mg sodium, 21 grams carbs, 3 grams dietary fiber, 5 grams protein.

This bread reminded the testers of the things they liked the least about whole-grain breads. The texture was chewy, with a somewhat woody flavor. It left a heavy "grainy" aftertaste, according to two testers. Toasting did not do much for it, beyond adding a bit of sweetness from the caramelization of natural sugars. Final score: 71.

Arnold 100% Whole Wheat: 110 calories, 1 gram fat, 0 cholesterol, 220 mg sodium, 20 grams carbs, 3 grams dietary fiber, 4 grams protein.

With a nutty aroma, a dense texture and smooth, rich flavor this is a really great bread. Toasting brings out a bit of sweetness. The crust develops an outstanding crispness without toughening up out of the toaster. Like most whole-grain breads, you'll want to toast this a bit darker than white bread. Final score: 92.

Pepperidge Farm 100% Whole Wheat: 110 calories, 1.5 grams fat, 0 cholesterol, 150 mg sodium, 20 grams carbs, 3 grams dietary fiber, 4 grams protein.

This one's got a subdued, nutty aroma, and the taste of the untoasted slice is a bit weak. Toasting brings to the fore a seedy texture, as if some of the grains weren't quite fully ground. This may be intentional, but the testers as a whole found it unpleasant. Final score: 71.

So, after this massive bit of carbo-loading, we have the Pepperidge Farm folks at each end of the spectrum, with its wheat bread bringing up the rear while the whole-grain white edges out Arnold's offering for the top spot.

If you're a hardcore white bread fan, you should note that the 3 grams of dietary fiber in the whole-grain white is as much as any of the other breads. Fusion!
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