Makes 4 servings

For an out-of-the-ordinary twist that adds both intrigue and nutrition, garnish the servings with hijiki (see Tip); if you have never tasted these sea vegetables, you're in for a pleasant surprise.

6 ounces lo mein noodles
¼ cup soy sauce
1 tablespoon dark (Asian) sesame oil
¼ teaspoon red pepper flakes, or to taste
1 tablespoon canola oil
3 cups sliced mushrooms
2 medium scallions, coarsely chopped
1 pound medium shrimp (about 30), shelled and deveined
¼ cup pine nuts
2 cloves garlic, minced
1 teaspoon minced fresh ginger

Bring a large pot of water to a boil over high heat; add the noodles. When the water returns to a boil, stir occasionally to separate the noodles. Reduce the heat to medium-high and cook until al dente, about 3 to 4 minutes, or according to package instructions.

While the noodles are cooking, stir together the soy sauce, sesame oil, and red pepper flakes in a small bowl.

When the noodles are done, drain and rinse well in cold water, then drain again. Transfer the noodles to a medium bowl and toss with 3 tablespoons of the soy sauce mixture.

Heat the oil in a large skillet over medium-high heat. Add the mushrooms and scallions. Cook, stirring occasionally, until tender, about 5 minutes. Reduce the heat to medium. Add the shrimp, pine nuts, garlic, and gingerroot; cook, stirring constantly, until the shrimp are cooked through and the pine nuts are lightly browned, about 2 to 3 minutes. Remove from the heat. Stir in the remaining soy sauce mixture. Taste and adjust the seasoning. Serve warm or allow to come to room temperature before serving.

To serve, transfer the noodles to individual bowls; top with the shrimp mixture.